The Train Kept a Rollin'

8/10/06

We are in China.  We made it here after a very long train ride from Moscow.  Since I couldn't type journal entries while on the train, I wrote them down longhand (apparently that method still works as a way to communicate) and will now give you, dear reader, an account of the Trans-Mongolain Express.

7/26/06

We set our clocks one hour ahead every day as we make our way east.  This way, after so many days on the train, we will be on Beijing time.  I've read Russia has 11 time zones, and somehow I don't think my watch will be correct by the time we make Beijing (author's note: it wasn't).

We left Moscow last night at 9:30 p.m.  I was sick all day (possibly from bad vodka) stuck in a coffee shop watching Sarah email people.  I slept eleven hours in my single top bunk and only awoke once when another train rocketed past ours in the opposite direction, the sound of which made me believe the world was ending.  I got up and shut the window at 4:30 am and the sky was already well lit.

Today we sat on our lower bunks all day reading.  I finished "Treasure Island" and moved on to "The Tortilla Curtain" by T.C. Boyle.

A conductor came around after lunch with some beers in a wet pillow case.  We bought two for two dollars.  They were slightly above warm.  I nursed mine for about two hours believing he would come back with the second round.  He didn't.

We don't have a map of Russia, but do have a printout of all the stops we're supposedly making along the way. However, none of these stops are corresponding to the times on the paper, so I have no idea where we are.  All I see are fields, rows of trees, and sometimes an industrial towns that probably made the Germans think twice when they came this way.  Still, it's beautiful.

I was expecting food vendors at all these stops, but the last few were deserted.  It looks like the dining car for us tonight.  I think I may try the beefsteak.

7/28/06

No beefsteak.  I did however have the chicken fillet.  Breaded and fried on a bed of rice.  I'm getting that again tonight.  We have been hanging out in our car watching the scenery and heading to the dining car at night.  It's about a five minute walk through seven different cars and forty nine doors.  It takes a bit of balance and resolve walking between the cars.  Especially since you can see the tracks flying by just beneath.

The conductor this morning was a bit heavy on the brakes.  I think they may let the new guy work the early shift.  I woke up a few times around 6 am to the violence of cars hammering together.  It's very disturbing.

Siberia has expansive cloudy skies and is dotted with tiny villages every hour or so.  I feel so relaxed, albeit a bit funky without a shower in three days.  I secretly like not showering.  It's like camp.

I finished "The Tortilla Curtain" and am now working through "White Fang" by Jack London.  I realize now I've read this before. When I was nine.

7/29/06

I have a problem.  I can't take care of business.  Last time I "got some time to read the sports page alone" was Tuesday morning.  It's now Saturday afternoon.  I'm sure it's because I've moved about four feet in the past day.  I think Sarah is worse off with her allergies. This morning she sneezed eleven times in a row.  I think it's the Mongolian dust outside.  I didn't sleep well last night.  The god damn conductor needs to ease up on the brakes.  I thought we were crashing more than once.  I dreamt about a nonexistent 70s era motorcycle daredevil movie for which I composed the soundtrack.  I am beginning to lose my mind.

We are headed straight into the desert.  This morning I looked at my watch a noticed today is the 29th of July.  I figured it had to be the 30th since we're getting into Beijing on the 31st.  As it happens, somewhere in Russia, we forgot the train is a six night ordeal rather than five night one.  It took some mental reorganization to let that one sink in.  We get in forty eight hours from now.

Some of our carriage mates include a Korean family with two teenage girls, a guy from Taiwan who is shooting a documentary on horses (or so he says) and a girl (Canadian?) who talks a lot about Jehovah.

7/30/06

It is our two month travel anniversary.  I bought a rock today from a little Mongolian girl while the train stopped in the town of Choyr.  Sarah bought some cookies and soup.  I am pretty tired this afternoon.  I think it's because I got up at what my body thought was 4 a.m.

There is nothing in Mongolia but endless green desert and the spare horse.

Comments

[s0m31]

You must teach me the art of this so called "longhand". I heard it was used by my parents, it must have been difficult. It's strange, Sarah has allergy problems with Mongolian Dust but not with cats, I guess she got lucky. Happy two month travel anniversary, I hope the anniversarys continue. Best wishes.

-John-

[Liana]

Awww, I've never understood men and bathrooms - how can one sit in there for so long "reading"?? :)

[Hector]

You guys are inspiring me to travel!! Although I'd probably start off traveling the USA first and then take the big plunge and travel the world! :) Great job on the site Brendan and Sarah.

[Howard]

Excellent post, Brendan. The train ride sounds like quite an ordeal, but it sounds like you're taking it in good humor. Happy travels!

[Justin]

Well if i ever hear another person complain about a LONG greyhound bus ride,ill direct them here.Its good that you guys can finally relax off a constant moving enviornment.i cant imagine how cramped the space is along with other people in the dine car crammed in there.Im glad you guys made it though.Till next post.

Justin

[Aimee Self]

Hello Brendan and Sarah.
I´ll start off saying you don´´t know me, but I found your podcast on the internet and I´ve been watching it closely as you two are doing what me and my partner would love to do.
My question is however, why have you stopped publishing podcasts? The last one I saw was you two on your way to St.Petersburg.. Am I just very impatient or ?
Keep up the good work and have a great trip!

[Doug]

Hey guys,

I've never done the train east out of Moscow, but I did the Moscow to Minsk line quite a few times. One thing I always found was a bit of disorientation during the ride, especially in the summer when the sun was up for about 21 hours a day. Anyway, it looks like it's a lot worse when you go east, since somehow you managed to make it to 8/10 in your journal and posted it on 8/2. :D
Love the blogs and the podcast, very enjoyable.

[Joe]

Hey Brendan,

My wife and I once took a train from Albany, NY to Disney World, and it was the worst 28 hours of our conjoined lives. I don't know how you made it six days. You are a far, far stronger man than I. Anyway, thanks for keeping us up to date.

[BhamAaron]

This entry felt like it should be made into a movie and sent to Sundance. You start out in the present and then relapsed to what has happened to lead to where you are now. It never gets old like that baby, we're always on our toes.

[Phil]

I love watching, and reading about your travels. You two have some good chemistry. And Brendan... i hope the bowels move. :)